A classic American American classic.
Someday in your woodworking career, youll want to reach for the sky. Maybe youll have an urge to make an ambitious piece of your own design, or perhaps youll prefer to walk in the shoes of cabinetmakers who have gone before and build an American classic. If you love period furniture, this table is for you.
Our table dates back to the early days of the American republic, when card-playing parties were often hosted in fashionable homes. The table was usually placed against a wall with the top down. The table was moved to the center of the room on the night of a party. The top was opened into a full circle by swinging the back legs.
The Federal period is a time span in decorative arts that runs from 1790 to 1830. The Federal icon was the demilune (half moon) card table. Cabinetmakers from all parts of the country made their own interpretations of it. Ive studied many Federal card tables and have come to prefer those made in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, for their restrained elegance.
This table is not a reproduction. It was my original design, which I based on the Portsmouth pieces. The joinery and construction are very similar to those used in Federal-era shops. While youll most likely use power tools to mill all of the wood and to cut some of the joints, building this table still requires skilled work with hand tools. Once youre done, Im sure youll say with genuine pride, I made that!
Portsmouth Card Table Cut List
Overall Dimensions: 29
Notes: Quantity includes approximately 6 additional. Miter both ends at 9.
The apron is four layers high, for a total width of 3-
b) Includes two sets of dovetails, each 9/41 cm long.
c) Length is approximate.
d Includes a 3 cm tenon.
Fig. A) Exploded View
Fig. B) Apron Staging Board
Fig. C) Plan View
Fig. D) Dovetail Joints
Fig. E) Leg Gauge
Fig. F) Curved Rail Center Panels
Fig. G Leg, Front and Side View (below)
Fig. H) Rear Leg Joinery
Fig. J) Orientation Leg Tapers
Fig. K) Purfling and Bandings
Fig. L) Swinging Rail and Knuckle
Fig. M) Top Layout
Build The Apron
Most people assume that an apron made from one large piece of wood is what they first see when they see a half-round table with cards like this. That wouldnt really work, I explain. Its made from 50 pieces, not one.
Those pieces are laid up like bricks in a wall (Fig. A). Federal cabinetmakers used this technique to create this type of apron. It is still the easiest way for small-scale builders to do so. Start by cutting the bricks (A). Each brick should be cut at 9 (Fig. B).
To help you build the wall, create a staging board (Fig. B). The board must be dead flat to prevent the wall from becoming twisted. A sheet of melamine is what I use. It’s easy to see the lines and glue won’t stick to it. Using a trammel, draw a large arc on the staging board to indicate the outer perimeter of the wall. Note that the radius of this circle is greater than the arc of your finished apron.
1. Glue up the curved apron by building a wall of overlapping bricks. You don’t need to clamp the bricks. Just press down and rub them around until glue grabs.
Lay the first bricks within the arc ( Photo 1). Use glue to bind the bricks. If the bricks dont fit tight against each other, dont worry. Small gaps are OK because the main source of the walls strength is its staggered structure. You dont have to clamp the bricks end-to-end.
The second layer of wall should be built. These bricks should overlap the lower bricks about halfway. Again, you dont have to clamp. Apply a generous amount glue to a portion of the lower layer. Next, press each brick firmly onto the glue and rub it back-and-forth until it grabs. As you build the wall, use a square to make sure it is plumb. Let the glue dry overnight.
2. Saw both sides of the apron into a half-circle. You can also trim the ends with a bandsaw.
Draw the outside radius of the apron on the wall (Fig. B). I use a half-round MDF templates. The wall was cut using a bandsaw ( photo 2). Leaving a small flat spot or divot is OK-you can patch it later, if necessary. You can also use a marking gauge for the outer radius of the wall. Smoothen the outer surface of your apron with 60 or 80 grit if it has teeth marks.
Use a No. 7, or 8 plane. 8 plane and ensure that the surfaces are parallel to each other. Cut the ends of the apron to length (Fig. B) Use the bandsaw.
Make The Apron Joints
3. To receive the back rail, saw rabbets at both ends of the Apron.
In order to join the rear fixed rail (B) to the apron, cut a shallow rabbet into each end of the apron (Photo 3). A dado set is used to support the apron. Raise the dado set to 7/20 cm, the thickness of the rail.
3B.
Next, place the bridle joints for the front legs in the apron and cut them. Ive found that the best way to do this is to make two gauge blocks (Fig. E) should be the same width as a leg in thickness and width.
4. For the bridle joints connecting the front legs and the apron, make a gauge block.
Cut a deep notch in each gauge block on the bandsaw, then chop out the waste (Photo 4). To mark the distance that the front of each gauge block should extend over the apron bricks, mark both sides (Fig. E).
5. Use the gauge block to lay out the joints. Line up the two overhang marks on the block with the front of your apron to orient it.
Mark the location of the bridle joints on the top of the apron by measuring from each end of the apron. (Fig. C). These marks should be marked with a gauge block. Line up the overhang marks and the front of your apron, then draw around the block’s end ( Photo 5 ).
6. Cut kerfs on both sides of the apron using the bandsaw or a tenon saw. Use a chisel or a shoulder rabbet to clean out any waste.
To cut the outside edges of the Bridle Joints, use a bandsaw or a Tenon Saw. Next, make several cuts across the joints to reduce waste and make it easier to plane the rest ( Photo 6 ).
7. Test the fit of the bridle joint with the gauge block. If the joint is too wide or too narrow, let it be. Later on, youll mill the actual leg to fit.
Each gauge block should be marked as the left or right leg. Next, you will need to test the fit and remove any waste ( photo 7). Make any necessary adjustments to the most accessible part of the joint. If the legs width doesnt fit, use a plane to narrow the gauge block; dont cut the shoulders of the apron. The gauge block’s notch may be too narrow. Plan the apron and don’t try to make it wider. Make sure the front overhang of the block remains correct.
8. To join the back rail and apron, cut large dovetails. Card tables of the Federal period were moved around a lot, so strong joinery was essential.
Next, turn your attention to the rear fixed rail. Measure the distance between the ends, from the inside to the outside, of the apron. Add the lengths of two sets of dovetails (Fig. D) to determine the length of the rail. Then, mill the rail to the final size. Place the rail on the apron, and then cut dovetails at both ends. The sockets can be cut and glued in place by cutting them with a saw.
Use The Apron
9. For the apron, prepare extra-thick veneer. I make it myself by gluing standard-thickness veneer (and banding) to a flat board first. This board can be rewound to make extra thick stock.
Veneering a curved surface with a complex pattern of shapes, inlays and bandings has always been a formidable challenge, but Ive figured out an easy way to do it. Veneering on Curve has more information. Heres the short version. You prepare a flat board first, then glue the various elements of the design to it, one at a time, and level them off. Next, you will resaw the board’s front and remove a piece measuring 3/81 cm. The resulting veneer is still flexible enough to bend around the apron, but thick enough to span over any slight imperfections in the aprons surface without leaving telltale depressions or shadows in the finished piece.
10. Glue the veneer to the apron using a caul made from bending plywood and glued-on blocks. The extra-thick veneer will form a smooth curve even if the apron has a small flat spot.
Start veneering the apron by applying the pieces (E) that span the front and back legs (Photo 9). These pieces should be cut so that they extend to the bridle joint and overhang the apron by approximately 1/20 cm. To ensure adequate and even pressure, use a clamping belt made from bending plywood and glued-on wood blocks (Photo 10). Glue the center panel (D in Fig. F) in the same way, then trim off the overhanging portions.
Make The Legs
11. Trim overhanging veneer at the bridle joints. Fit the legs to the apron.
Mill all four of the tables legs, leaving them square for now. Cut notches in the two front legs, then fit them to the apron (Photo 11).
12. Cut mortises in the two back legs-theyll be connected to rails that swing out from the table. To wrap the apron around these legs, you will need recesses. You can rout the recesses by butting the legs together (12B).
To receive the swinging rail ends, cut mortises in the back legs (G, Figure). H). In addition, rout a recess in each leg so it will be able to cover the end of the apron (Photo 12). Square the corners of the mortises and recesses.
12B.
Saw tapers on all four legs (Photo 13). Each leg is tapered on both sides. However, there are two options. J). As you can see in the illustration, the back side of each leg is tapered. None of the front sides are tapered. The sides of the legs are referred to by their orientations. It is best to think about it in this way: The tapered sides are those that face the middle of the table and go around the apron. This can all be confusing. Take care to mark your legs, then go away. Then, come back the next morning and verify the layout. Shading in the waste areas before cutting will help you visualize the correct arrangement of the tapers.
13. Taper the inside faces of all four legs. Youll also taper one side of each leg-but proceed carefully. Two legs are tapered on the left side; the other two are tapered on the right side.
Finish the legs by adding their banding, stringing, bellflowers and inlay (Figs. G and K). Note that the ankle banding goes all the way around each leg, and that the back sides of the legs dont have any stringing or other decoration on them.
Swinging Rail
The three-part swinging rail is to be milled at the ends (F) as well as the center (F). The center section should be cut to the exact length. However, the ends must be 3 cm longer.
These knuckle joints allow the back legs of the support structure to swing out from the top thanks to the knuckle joints. The knuckles at the swinging rail will stick out as you open each leg. Theyll bump into a stop, limiting the amount that the leg can swing to 45. As we move along, I’ll explain how it works.
14. Saw knuckle joints for the two swinging rails that are joined to the back legs. The outer cuts should be made on the tablesaw. Remove most of the waste on the bandsaw, then chop out the rest.
Lay out each piece of wood on your hands (Fig. L). L. Make all the outside cuts for the bearing surfaces on the tablesaw, standing the pieces upright. The bandsaw should be cleared of most of the waste ( Photo 14). Next, chop the shoulders. You want to ensure that the fingers are tightly fitted together so the legs don’t move around when you move the table.
15. The swinging rail pivots on a steel pin. When the rail is opened to 45 degrees, the pin is placed so that the pivoting side of the knuckles extends by 1/20 cm.
Chamfer the ends of the rails by making bevel cuts on the tablesaw. Assemble the knuckle joints and drill holes for the pivot pins (see Sources, page 47). To make it easier to remove the pins during construction, cut them extra long and then insert them into the joints. Open the joints and make sure that the knuckles on the end rails project about 1/20 cm (Photo 15).
16. Notch the rear fixed rail opposite the point where the knuckles will stick out. This notch acts to stop the swinging rail.
Next, make the stops. Theyre simply notches cut into the back fixed rail (Fig. C). Place the assembled swinging rail on the fixed back rail. Open each knuckle joint 45 and mark where the protruding fingers contact the fixed rail. Use an angle board to guide you ( Photo 16 ).
Place the assembled swinging rail back in position, lying flat, and note how long the end rails must be-including their tenons-so the back legs will project beyond the apron by the correct amount (Fig.
C). Disassemble the swinging rail, cut the end rails to length, saw tenons on their ends and glue the rails to the legs.
Theres one more step: cutting rabbets on both ends of the apron to receive the back legs. Reassemble the swinging rail one more time and clamp it to the fixed back rail. Butt the back legs up to the apron and lay out the rabbets. Unclamp the swinging rail and cut the rabbets by hand.
Add The Top
Make the two halves of the top (H) with identical curves (Fig. M). Glue in a small line of purfling all around the upper and lower curved edges of both pieces. Tape will suffice, no clamps required.
Join the halves with card table hinges (see Sources). When laying out the mortises, be sure that each hinges knuckles protrude by 1/81 cm. This will ensure that both halves are clear when the top is opened.
17. Attach the top to base. Glue the rear legs to the swinging rail, then clamp this assembly to the table.
Rout slots along the inside edge of the apron and back rail to receive table top clips (see Sources). Clamp the swinging rail, with the back legs attached, to the back fixed rail. Fasten the top to the base (Photo 17).
18. Swing out the rear legs 45 and open the top. Place the top flat on both your legs. You may have to unclamp and adjust the position of the swinging rail to achieve this.
Flip the table over and lift the back legs. Open the top and place it on the legs ( Foto 18). Check that the top lies flat and contacts both legs. If you find a problem, remove the swinging rail from its clamp and adjust its position.
19. Once youve made any necessary adjustments, fasten the center portion of the swinging rail to the table.
Once everything is good, screw the swinging rail in place (Photo 19). Cut the pivot pins to final length and peen over their top ends so they wont slip out some day, many years from now. Yes, this table will be treasured for that long!
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